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iPad A1395 Battery Replacement Questions PLEASE

Leaky88

iPF Noob
Hi,
I'm trying to change the battery on my iPad2 and have some questions. Pics attached. It's an IPad 16GB Model-A1395 IPAD2 Serial DYTLT2X5DFHW
The IPad 2 video I found does not correspond to my model. Specifically, IPad in video had a plug in speaker. Mine is(was) permanently attached to board. There is no plug, it soldered.

Could someone please direct me to a video/PDF on my model? Or explain what needs to be disconnected to free up processor? Any assistance/advise would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Leaky
 

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Life scifan said , Ifixit guides will help , as will YouTube. That top ribbon cable does come off just peel the black tape back carefully then flip up the clip. Your version of iPad 2 is the revision A version. You’ll need to go slow and careful getting that Battery out. I use a plastic putty knife and be sure to get the adhesive plenty warm. The iPad 2 is the finickiest of iPads to work on with lots of gotchas and booby traps to overcome.
 
scifan and Brian,
Thanks. I appreciate the feedback and warnings about the traps. My life would not be complete without such obstacles. :)
Leaky
 
Life scifan said , Ifixit guides will help , as will YouTube. That top ribbon cable does come off just peel the black tape back carefully then flip up the clip. Your version of iPad 2 is the revision A version. You’ll need to go slow and careful getting that Battery out. I use a plastic putty knife and be sure to get the adhesive plenty warm. The iPad 2 is the finickiest of iPads to work on with lots of gotchas and booby traps to overcome.
Got one side of the logic board freed but the side of logic board near headphone jack/control board ribbon cable is not releasing. I don't know if its the age of the unit or what. I always error on side of caution with these boards. It could be me. Any suggestions?
 
Got one side of the logic board freed but the side of logic board near headphone jack/control board ribbon cable is not releasing. I don't know if its the age of the unit or what. I always error on side of caution with these boards. It could be me. Any suggestions?
There's a screw in that corner. There are 5 screws and the WiFi antenna connector to remove before the logic board can be removed. Check out steps 38, 42, 44, and 45 in the EMC 2560 repair guide section on battery replacement. This is the guide for your revision A iPad 2.
 
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Thanks for helping me through this. I had all the screws out. It was me hesitant to apply enough pressure.
Logic Board and Battery are out. The repair guide stops. Question: Do I need to remove all the residual adhesive from old battery and if so, do I use a plastic scraper and rubbing alcohol or what? Or leave it and install the new battery? Thanks. Leaky
 
Thanks for helping me through this. I had all the screws out. It was me hesitant to apply enough pressure.
Logic Board and Battery are out. The repair guide stops. Question: Do I need to remove all the residual adhesive from old battery and if so, do I use a plastic scraper and rubbing alcohol or what? Or leave it and install the new battery? Thanks. Leaky
You should remove the remains of the old adhesive as leaving it in place will prevent the battery from laying flat. Try rubbing the old adhesive off with your fingers and maybe an alcohol swab to remove any remaining residue.
 
Had to put on hold for a couple of days due to illness. I just completed Step 1 in re-assembly and have the new battery in place.

I have another question. During disassembly, specifically Step 39, I gingerly tried forever to remove the speaker cable connector straight up from its socket. While doing so the entire socket/connector came up to my disappointment. All that left on the logic board are 4 solder points, and I don't have a quality solder station to reattach it.
Not that I want to, but will the iPad still function without the speaker?
 
You'll not hear any sound from any videos or music, nor will you hear any alerts or notifications. While the iPad will still work to a degree, it's functionality will be severely degraded.
 
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You'll not hear any sound from any videos or music, nor will you hear any alerts or notifications. While the iPad will still work to a degree, it's functionality will be severely degraded.
Understand and thanks for feedback.
Really upsets me. Knowing how fragile these boards are, I danced around it for the longest. While I believe the socket could be reattached, I am concerned about heat and damage to other components. I have looked at the socket/speaker combination at least 10 times under a lighted magnifying glass and do not see how the connector detaches from the socket. Granted, my 63 YO eyes are not what they use to be. Guess this is one of the "traps" Brian warned of. As much as I would hate to do it, do Phone Repair shops rework boards?
Thanks.
Leaky
 
Board level repairs are possible but the cost would be more than an iPad 2 is worth. Maybe it’s time to consider upgrading to a newer iPad.
 

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