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My iPad is not Charging!

TabletCat

iPF Noob
Forgive me if this is in the wrong place, etc.

The past two days I've had a charging/rebooting problem.

If I connect the charge port, my iPad will reboot....it will shut down only if the charge port is not connected

Did the update to the iOS, AFAIK, but the problem remains.

Please help
 
The past two days I've had a charging/rebooting problem.

If I connect the charge port, my iPad will reboot....it will shut down only if the charge port is not connected

Did the update to the iOS, AFAIK, but the problem remains.

Please provide us w/ more information: 1) What iPad do you own; 2) What iOS update did you do (assume to 8.x); and 3) What charger are you using - be specific?

Try the 'Reset', i.e. hold both the ON-OFF & HOME buttoms simultaneously until the Apple logo appears - allow the iPad to re-boot - post back your results and the answers to my questions. Dave :)
 
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It's an iPad 3, 32 GB, refurbished

The iOS is 8.1.2 (12B440)

AC adaptor
  • 0.3a, 50-60HZ
  • Output 5v 2100mA
  • iPad charger.webp


Model MC744LL/A

Modern Firmware 5.3.00
 
That does not look like the original AC Adaptor*. If you still have the original, give it a try. A lot of the cheaper adaptors are exactly that, cheap, made of cheap components that barely meat the minimum safety specs.

Anyway, you need to try a second AC adaptor, if for no other reason than to eliminate it as the possible source of the problem.

* I can't see the manufacturer of the device, so it's possible it is a great product. Griffin and Belkin make good, safe, reliable products. There are others. In general, they cost less than Apple's adaptor, but more than the super cheap stuff you see on Amazon.
 
Probably not applicable in this instance, but I noticed that extending the USB cable between my Apple charger and the Air 2 by 1m was enough to stop my iPad charging. (The wires used in both USB extension cables and the USB/lightning cable must be pretty thin and the charging current may be up to 2 amps hence the voltage drop.)
 
Let me start again

This is what I bought > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=141424398991&view=all&tid=1046651678004

Wikipedia desc of the iPad 3rd generation > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IPad_(3rd_generation)

It's 32 GB, WiFi, refurbished, Model MC744LL/A, Modern Firmware 5.3.00

The iOS is 8.1.2 (12B440) My problems started when my iPad got notification of this update last Wednesday.

The charger that came with it does not have a make or hint of wattage, although it did charge the iPad until this problem....I bought a Griffin > http://store.griffintechnology.com/powerblock-with-lightning-cable-12w Did not solve the problem, but this seems to rule out the cause being a bad charger.

The problem: The iPad won't charge. When I power down, one of two things happen
  1. If the 30-pin connector is left in the port, it reboots after shut down
  2. If the iPad is shut down without the charge port connected, it shuts down normally. If I then plug in the 30-pin connector, it boots up. Does not matter if the connector is connected to the charger.
As previously suggested, I tried the ON-OFF & HOME buttons without success.

Should I consider going into settings and choose that Reset?

Power is down to about 35%, I hope there are options if the battery is exhausted.

Hope this post clarifies.

Thank you for the replies.

 
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You swapped cables too, yes?

Actually, the iPad does start when you plug it in. It always has, as long as it has enough charge. At least in the last couple of years. I'm not sure before that. And it has a tendency to start again even if you plug in and then shut down. I think it has to do with the iPad needing to be on to monitor the charging; though I'm not sure.

You should not have to shut off your iPad to charge, though putting it to sleep by pressing the power button briefly is a good idea.

On both chargers, do you get a charging indication in the top right corner of the screen when it's plugged in?

If not, it's likely either the port is bad, or the battery, or some other hardware problem on the iPad. You can try to get it repaired, though with an iPad 3 it may not be worth the cost vs getting a newer model.
 
One thought: Do you know anyone locally to you with an iPad 3 or later? Perhaps comparison with their charger, cable, etc. might provide a pointer. The fact that this all started with the upgrade suggests not a battery or hardware problem; sounds like a system software error.

I don't know the answer to this, but can one downgrade back to the previous or an earlier version of IOS? (Perhaps this will need a jailbreak to downgrade the IOS, which could be something to avoid at present, unless it was jailbroken before. But then if it had been jailbroken, this may cause an upgrade clash. Hopefully others can advise or be more helpful. I do not know how I would spot a jailbroken system.)
 
One thought: Do you know anyone locally to you with an iPad 3 or later? Perhaps comparison with their charger, cable, etc. might provide a pointer. The fact that this all started with the upgrade suggests not a battery or hardware problem; sounds like a system software error.

I don't know the answer to this, but can one downgrade back to the previous or an earlier version of IOS? (Perhaps this will need a jailbreak to downgrade the IOS, which could be something to avoid at present, unless it was jailbroken before. But then if it had been jailbroken, this may cause an upgrade clash. Hopefully others can advise or be more helpful. I do not know how I would spot a jailbroken system.)
If it was a software error built into the latest upgrade, everybody would have the problem.

Once you upgrade, there's no way to downgrade to an earlier iOS version.
 
>>Once you upgrade, there's no way to downgrade to an earlier iOS version.
As I suspected.

>>If it was a software error built into the latest upgrade, everybody would have the problem.
Yes, but that assumes that everyone started the upgrade from the same point -a legit IOS version.

I still wonder about whether a jailbreak may be behind this. I found the following link at https://discussions.apple.com/thread/5028846
The title is 'Help please my ipad has been jailbroken'
First text reads: How do i reset my ipad it appears that my ipad has been jailbroken without my knowledge according to the Lookout antivirus software? iPad, iOS 5.1.1

A solution that apparently worked is posted as:-
==============================
This solved my question by Demo on May 12, 2013 6:01 AM
Try recovery mode. This will totally erase the device, which is what you need to do anyway.

You can read about it here or just follow the instructions below, copied from the support article.

http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4097

Recovery Mode Instructions
  • Disconnect the USB cable from the iPad, but leave the other end of the cable connected to your computer's USB port.
  • Turn off iPad: Press and hold the Sleep/Wake button for a few seconds until the red slider appears, then slide the slider. Wait for iPad to turn off.
  • If you cannot turn off iPad using the slider, press and hold the Sleep/Wake and Home buttons at the same time. When the iPad turns off, release the Sleep/Wake and Home buttons.
  • While pressing and holding the Home button, reconnect the USB cable to iPad. When you reconnect the USB cable, iPad should power on.
  • Continue holding the Home button until you see the "Connect to iTunes" screen. When this screen appears you can release the Home button.
  • If necessary, open iTunes. You should see the recovery mode alert that iTunes has detected an iPad in recovery mode.
  • Use iTunes to restore iPad.
See the answer in context
===================================
In the same topic someone else posted 'Put it in DFU mode (Recovery may not on occasion completely clear a jailbreak, use Google for instructions on how to do it) and then Restore it as a new device in iTunes.'

I hope that this is some help. (If you try the above, don't forget that all data will be lost, so save anything beforehand.)
 
I just got a new cable and that was the problem!

Must have been a kink on the 30-pin side of the cable.

Many thanks to those that weighed in.
 

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