Virginia Mountains - Vistas, History, & Wineries

[giradman]

Barboursville Wineries - Our Second Afternoon

Up the road from Keswick Hall, about a 30 minute drive, is Barboursville which has now nearly a half dozen wineries - our two stops were at Barboursville Vineyards and Horton Vineyards, two old time favorites. Barboursville Vineyards offers many amenities, including food (we had a light salad lunch) and a restaurant (Palladio w/ an Italian emphasis, as expected reading the first quote below). The grounds have the ruins of James Barbour's home, an early governor of Virginia and also rentals (see initial pics below). Susan had a glass of one of their sparkling wines and I a flight of their white wines - purchased a bottle of the Viognier Reserve (this is a popular grape in Virginia and also elsewhere, originating in the northern Rhone Valley).

Horton Vineyards was our second stop (Susan likes their peach wine and usually has a bottle at home) (see last pics below) - they offer an astounding number of wines and also a wide variety of other items (vinegars, salsas, etc.) - we shared a flight of six wines, 2 dessert types for Susan and 4 dry whites for me - a new one to me was Petit Manseng, a southern French grape described in the second quote. We did not buy any bottles, but I tasted the P. Manseng today at another winery and made a purchase. Dave
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The wine producing estate was founded in 1976 by Gianni Zonin, an Italian winemaker from the Veneto. The winery is built on the grounds of Barboursville, the home of the 19th Governor of the Commonwealth of Virginia, James Barbour. The home was built from 1814 through 1822 and is based on an architectural design provided by Barbour's friend, Thomas Jefferson, since 1969 listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It draws approximately 80,000 visitors a year.The estate is the first producer in the new era of Virginian wine history to plant Vitis vinifera since the failed attempts of Jefferson. Winery manager Luca Paschina first arrived as a consultant in 1990, now estimated among Virginia's leading winemakers. (Source)

Petit Manseng is a white wine grape variety that is grown primarily in South West France. It produces the highest quality wine of any grape in the Manseng family. The name is derived from its small, thick skin berries. Coupled with the small yields of the grapevine, most Petit Manseng farmers produce around 15 hl of wine per hectare. The grape is often left on the vine till December to produce a late harvest dessert wine. (Source)

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[giradman]

Last Day - Wineries in the Monticello AVA - Visited Three

On our last full day, we did the fitness center late morning then hit the wine trail again stopping at just three of the dozens of wineries in the Monticello AVA (see previous maps) - out first stop was Eastwood Farm & Winery, a rather rustic place with a nice small lunch menu (Susan had spinach quiche and I a salad); she had a glass of the Raspberry Rose (made mostly from merlot w/ 10% raspberry), and I a flight of white wines, enjoyed all - we bought 2 bottles shown below, i.e. the rose and Petit Manseng (discussed in the previous post).

Next a visit to Jefferson Vineyards - a smaller production w/ a lot of outside tables as seen below - again, I was sticking to white wines and of those tasted, I decided on their non-oaked 2021 Chardonnay - this grape is ubiquitous throughout Virginia and many wineries offer different styles, one usually not aged in oak but in stainless steel and a more complex (and more expensive) wine that has seen wood.

Our most impressive stop was at Trump Winery (last pics below), yes now managed by the former President's younger son, Eric - see quote. The tasting room sits on high hill with beautiful panoramic views of the countryside and acres of vineyards. Two tasting rooms are inside, one active on our visit; plus a restaurant. I had another flight of whites and bought a bottle of their Chardonnay Reserve. There is also a large gift shop (but no blow-up balloon figures of 'The Donald'). Also, on the property is the Albemarle Estate at Trump Winery, a boutique hotel w/ steep entry fees (check link if interested in pricing). Dave

Trump Winery (formerly Kluge Estate Winery and Vineyard) is a winery on Trump Vineyard Estates in the Piedmont region of Virginia in the county of Albemarle. It is within the Monticello viticultural area and is among the 23 wineries on the Monticello Wine Trail. The vineyard was purchased by Donald Trump in April 2011 and re-opened in October 2011. Since 2012, it has been owned and operated by Trump's son Eric. The 227 acres (92 ha) of vinifera varieties makes it the largest vineyard in Virginia and the largest French vinifera on the East Coast, according to the company. (Source)

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[giradman]

Donald Trump Telling Fibs Again!

In one of my previous posts, a quote claimed that the Trump Winery is the largest on the East Coast, which I knew was another 'tall tale', i.e. a lie - this was a claim made by 'The Donald' in 2016, just another of this fibs to add to thousands of others -

Looking at the first pic below (Source), the West Coast States produce 90+% of wine in the United States - Virginia comes in 10th at a lowly 0.27% (North Carolina, my state, is 12th is this survey) - Trump's claim is already defeated by New York w/ nearly 15x more wine production; a nice discussion of this Trump fib HERE - just a few quotes below from the link (for much more read the article, if interested). So Trump, the Pinocchio of Politics likes to delve into other areas - Dave

P.S. Disclaimer - Susan and I did not vote for Donald in 2016 (nor if he lucks out and runs again in 2024)

In fact, by that measure Trump Winery is not even the largest in Virginia. The Trump Winery produces about 36,000 cases of wine each year....The top producers in the state are the Williamsburg Winery and Chateau Morrisette in Floyd County -- each making about 60,000 cases a year, Boyd said. Barboursville Winery in Orange County, meanwhile, makes about 37,000 cases a year, Boyd said.

It’s not hard to find wineries along the East Coast that make even more. Duplin Winery in Rose Hill, N.C., produces about 390,000 cases of sweet wine a year, Dave Fussell Jr., Duplin’s president, told us in an email. Duplin claims to be the "largest winery in the South." Its grapes come from more than 1,000 acres, the vast majority from farmers who grow them off-site. The Biltmore Winery in Asheville, N.C., produces about 150,000 cases of wine a year.

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[suenc]

Return to Keswick Hall - August 2023 - boy have not posted here in 4 years - COVID likely! Began this thread back in August 2015 with our first visit to this Charlottesville resort (about a 3 1/2 hr from our home) - a multi-million dollar renovation was completed in 2020 w/ a spa addition opening on 2022 (Susan has an appointment tomorrow morning) - plenty of other changes (see link if interested), including the addition of a free-standing restaurant called Marigold, run by renowned Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten; so far, we had a great dinner last night and a wonderful light lunch today after a visit to the fitness center.

Images below mostly mine from yesterday on our arrival plus a few from the web. The resort has expanded from 40+ rooms/suites to 80 and the decor is much lighter (whites/beiges) and modern (for those interested, go to the beginning of this thread and compare the old vs. new appearances). There is now an infinity pool and the Pete Dye designed golf course looks in great shape (stopped playing golf a while back). Due to Susan's issues w/ mobility we will not be going to the many places as on our initial visit, so reviewing the first 4 or so pages from the start of this travelogue will provide a great overview of Charlottesville and its many offerings. Dave

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Return to Keswick Hall - August 2023 - boy have not posted here in 4 years - COVID likely! Began this thread back in August 2015 with our first visit to this Charlottesville resort (about a 3 1/2 hr from our home) - a multi-million dollar renovation was completed in 2020 w/ a spa addition opening on 2022 (Susan has an appointment tomorrow morning) - plenty of other changes (see link if interested), including the addition of a free-standing restaurant called Marigold, run by renowned Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten; so far, we had a great dinner last night and a wonderful light lunch today after a visit to the fitness center.

Images below mostly mine from yesterday on our arrival plus a few from the web. The resort has expanded from 40+ rooms/suites to 80 and the decor is much lighter (whites/beiges) and modern (for those interested, go to the beginning of this thread and compare the old vs. new appearances). There is now an infinity pool and the Pete Dye designed golf course looks in great shape (stopped playing golf a while back). Due to Susan's issues w/ mobility we will not be going to the many places as on our initial visit, so reviewing the first 4 or so pages from the start of this travelogue will provide a great overview of Charlottesville and its many offerings. Dave

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Quite a getaway! Keswick Hall was luxurious, with excellent innovative cuisine by Chef Jean-Georges, friendly and efficient staff.

 

[suenc]

Keswick Vineyards

After the fitness center and a light lunch at Marigold (starters - an excellent seasonal gazpacho soup - nicely chilled and made from locally sourced tomatoes, berries, etc.), we visited a nearby winery, Keswick Vineyards - I had a small flight of four white wines (two chardonnays, viognier, and a viognier blend) and Susan had a pina colada-pineapple wine slushy (her now usual selection, if available). I bought a bottle of their 2021 'Keswick' chardonnay - the other was tasty but aged in stainless steel and not as complex.

Now 8 years since I've tasted any Virginian wine so more to visit (but now buying lightly these days) and want to do a little research on the current status of this state's wines - an upcoming post. Dave

P.S. Keswick has a putt-putt golf course w/ a wine barrel motif - (however, post-rain and wet) - last 2 pics.
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I’m not a wine lover like Dave, but I enjoy visiting wineries for their beauty and individual “personalities."

 

[suenc]

Barboursville Wineries - Our Second Afternoon

Up the road from Keswick Hall, about a 30 minute drive, is Barboursville which has now nearly a half dozen wineries - our two stops were at Barboursville Vineyards and Horton Vineyards, two old time favorites. Barboursville Vineyards offers many amenities, including food (we had a light salad lunch) and a restaurant (Palladio w/ an Italian emphasis, as expected reading the first quote below). The grounds have the ruins of James Barbour's home, an early governor of Virginia and also rentals (see initial pics below). Susan had a glass of one of their sparkling wines and I a flight of their white wines - purchased a bottle of the Viognier Reserve (this is a popular grape in Virginia and also elsewhere, originating in the northern Rhone Valley).

Horton Vineyards was our second stop (Susan likes their peach wine and usually has a bottle at home) (see last pics below) - they offer an astounding number of wines and also a wide variety of other items (vinegars, salsas, etc.) - we shared a flight of six wines, 2 dessert types for Susan and 4 dry whites for me - a new one to me was Petit Manseng, a southern French grape described in the second quote. We did not buy any bottles, but I tasted the P. Manseng today at another winery and made a purchase. Dave
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That’s me in red, sitting by the fireplace while Dave indulges.

 

[suenc]

Last Day - Wineries in the Monticello AVA - Visited Three

On our last full day, we did the fitness center late morning then hit the wine trail again stopping at just three of the dozens of wineries in the Monticello AVA (see previous maps) - out first stop was Eastwood Farm & Winery, a rather rustic place with a nice small lunch menu (Susan had spinach quiche and I a salad); she had a glass of the Raspberry Rose (made mostly from merlot w/ 10% raspberry), and I a flight of white wines, enjoyed all - we bought 2 bottles shown below, i.e. the rose and Petit Manseng (discussed in the previous post).

Next a visit to Jefferson Vineyards - a smaller production w/ a lot of outside tables as seen below - again, I was sticking to white wines and of those tasted, I decided on their non-oaked 2021 Chardonnay - this grape is ubiquitous throughout Virginia and many wineries offer different styles, one usually not aged in oak but in stainless steel and a more complex (and more expensive) wine that has seen wood.

Our most impressive stop was at Trump Winery (last pics below), yes now managed by the former President's younger son, Eric - see quote. The tasting room sits on high hill with beautiful panoramic views of the countryside and acres of vineyards. Two tasting rooms are inside, one active on our visit; plus a restaurant. I had another flight of whites and bought a bottle of their Chardonnay Reserve. There is also a large gift shop (but no blow-up balloon figures of 'The Donald'). Also, on the property is the Albemarle Estate at Trump Winery, a boutique hotel w/ steep entry fees (check link if interested in pricing). Dave



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We are not fans of “The Donald” and his cronies, but this 1300-acre winery is worth a trip even if you’re not a Republican.

 

[scifan57]

Another most excellent travel story. It makes the reader wish they were there.

 

[giradman]

Another most excellent travel story. It makes the reader wish they were there.

Thanks SciFan - we could not do as much as 8 years ago when I started this thread, especially wanted to return to Jefferson's Popular Forest and Madison's Montpelier but those tours are about an hour w/ steps and stairs, plus the temps even in the mountains hovered around 90ºF, so could have been a tiring and stifling experience for Susan. But we loved the renovated Keswick Hall and their superb restaurant, along w/ the winery visits and the beautiful mountain roads. Dave
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[giradman]

Smith Mountain Lake - September 2023!

Susan and I are on a 4-night stay in a lovely lake front condo on Smith Mountain Lake, a 2-hour drive from our home (see maps below); probably our 3rd-4th visit and second overnight. We rented a nice two-BR condo on the lake (my pics below w/ an 'X' on our condo. As in the quote, the Smith Mountain Dam was finished in 1963 to produce hydroelectric power - its location is indicated on one of the maps - we've never been to the dam but may be a nice half day trip this time?

The lake is beautiful with numerous water inlets from flooding the mountain valleys and 500 miles of shoreline! There is a commercial boat ride which we likely will take - also I was thinking of renting a motor boat but may be an issue for Susan and her balancing problems. There are plenty of things to do, such as a visit to the Booker T. Washington National Monument or the Appomattox Court House National Historic site, the latter about an hour+ drive and we've been there twice, so will likely skip this time. Dave

Smith Mountain Lake is a large reservoir in the Roanoke Region of Virginia, United States, located southeast of the City of Roanoke and southwest of Lynchburg. The lake was created in 1963 by the Smith Mountain Dam impounding the Roanoke River. The majority of the south shore of the lake lies in Franklin County while a small portion, including access to the dam, lies in Pittsylvania County. Bedford County makes up the northern half of the lake with the Roanoke River as the dividing line. The lake has become a popular recreation spot and has also experienced significant development in the last decade. It is the largest lake contained entirely within the state of Virginia. (Source)

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[giradman]

Monday morning from the condo deck - clear skies, sun coming up - may do a trip to the dam?
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[giradman]

Edited Post from 8 years ago earlier in this thread - Dave

Booker T. Washington National Monument

Near Smith Mountain Lake is the Booker T. Washington National Monument)- in pre-Civil War 1856, Booker was born a slave on a plantation in the locale on the map below (and before Smith Mountain Lake even existed) - post-Civil War, he became a famous orator, educator (see the sign related to Tuskegee Institute in Alabama), and confidant to USA Presidents - several paragraphs below (Source). Many of his sayings are still quoted and he has been on coins & stamps.

We've been to the site probably three times over the years - easy stop if going to Roanoke, Smith Mountain Lake, or Appomattox - there is a small visitor's center and a self-guided tour of the grounds which shows slave quarter log shacks - live animals are maintained on the property and costumed guides are present. Worth a stop w/ plenty to do in the area - Dave

Booker Taliaferro Washington (April 5, 1856 – November 14, 1915) was an African-American educator, author, orator, and advisor to presidents of the United States. Between 1890 and 1915, Washington was the dominant leader in the African-Americancommunity.

Washington was from the last generation of black American leaders born into slavery and became the leading voice of the former slaves and their descendants, who were newly oppressed by disfranchisement and the Jim Crow discriminatory laws enacted in the post-Reconstruction Southern states in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. In 1895 his Atlanta compromisecalled for avoiding confrontation over segregation and instead putting more reliance on long-term educational and economic advancement in the black community.

His base was the Tuskegee Institute, a historically black college in Alabama. As lynchings in the South reached a peak in 1895, Washington gave a speech in Atlanta that made him nationally famous. The speech called for black progress through education and entrepreneurship. His message was that it was not the time to challenge Jim Crow segregation and the disfranchisement of black voters in the South. Washington mobilized a nationwide coalition of middle-class blacks, church leaders, and white philanthropists and politicians, with a long-term goal of building the community's economic strength and pride by a focus on self-help and schooling. Secretly, he supported court challenges to segregation.[1] Black militants in the North, led by W. E. B. Du Bois, at first supported the Atlanta compromise but after 1909 they set up the NAACP and tried with little success to challenge Washington's political machine for leadership in the black community.[2] Decades after Washington's death in 1915, the Civil Rights movement generally moved away from his policies to take the more militant NAACP approach. (Wiki)

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[giradman]

Another Re-post form earlier in this thread - about a 90+ minute drive from the lake - quotes are absent so check the links given below, if interested:

Appomattox - Lee Surrenders to Grant!

Below is a map that I posted several pages ago - so far I've discussed the Homestead, Natural Bridge, and Booker T. Washington National Monument - but there are still a handful of topics left to be added.

Appomattox Court House is a small restored village and another historic site, i.e. the place where Robert E. Lee surrendered to Ulysses S. Grant to effectively end the American Civil War - the village is just east of Lynchburg, so could be easily combined w/ trips to some of the other attractions.

When Lee deserted Petersburg after months of siege (covered in another travelogue from earlier this year), he and his dwindling army headed west (see second map) - an opening description of the 'final' campaign is quoted below (Source). Appomattox Court House is a National Historic Park that has been beautifully restored - the brochure below shows the structures duplicating the appearance from 1865 (white arrow on the Wilmer McLean house where the surrender took place). McLean was just not lucky in the Civil War - see second quote below which always gives me a chuckle -

Pics of the Courthouse and several of the McLean house below, along w/ paintings of the Lee-Grant surrender procedure in the house and then surrender of the Confederate Army to now Brigadier General Joshua Lawrence Chamberlain (who we saw in action at Gettysburg on Little Round Top) - see last quote below concerning Chamberlain's gallant behavior. Dave

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[scifan57]

Another Re-post form earlier in this thread - about a 90+ minute drive from the lake - quotes are absent so check the links given below, if interested:

Appomattox - Lee Surrenders to Grant!

Below is a map that I posted several pages ago - so far I've discussed the Homestead, Natural Bridge, and Booker T. Washington National Monument - but there are still a handful of topics left to be added.

Appomattox Court House is a small restored village and another historic site, i.e. the place where Robert E. Lee surrendered to Ulysses S. Grant to effectively end the American Civil War - the village is just east of Lynchburg, so could be easily combined w/ trips to some of the other attractions.

When Lee deserted Petersburg after months of siege (covered in another travelogue from earlier this year), he and his dwindling army headed west (see second map) - an opening description of the 'final' campaign is quoted below (Source). Appomattox Court House is a National Historic Park that has been beautifully restored - the brochure below shows the structures duplicating the appearance from 1865 (white arrow on the Wilmer McLean house where the surrender took place). McLean was just not lucky in the Civil War - see second quote below which always gives me a chuckle -

Pics of the Courthouse and several of the McLean house below, along w/ paintings of the Lee-Grant surrender procedure in the house and then surrender of the Confederate Army to now Brigadier General Joshua Lawrence Chamberlain (who we saw in action at Gettysburg on Little Round Top) - see last quote below concerning Chamberlain's gallant behavior. Dave

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The movie Gettysburg has a very good depiction of Chamberlain’s defence of Little Round Top, for which he received the Medal of Honour.

 

[giradman]

The movie Gettysburg has a very good depiction of Chamberlain’s defence of Little Round Top, for which he received the Medal of Honour.

Hi Scifan.. - yep, I've owned the DVD and now the BD of Gettysburg (not sure if I have the 'Director's Cut' shown below?). Jeff Daniels was great in that role - I've likely watched the film a half dozen times over the years. Probably 10 years or so now that I read a Chamberlain biography but cannot remember which one - there are many - he was an amazing person both during the Civil War and after (more HERE for those interested) . Dave