wifi underwater

[brokensword]

Hello,

I just purchased a used ipad2 as I thought it would serve to show me underwater footage of my pond via its wifi capabilities. I soon learned that I can't do this straight out but with a hack, it is possible. Using this method (coax cable attached near to the underwater casing of my sjcam5000, and then attached to the ipad 2 above water), has not proven to work. I'm suspecting the ipad is having issues as the signal soon breaks (pixelization, then stops completely) and wonder if anyone has done this, or has suggestions for a solution. From the youtube hack page, this should work. I tried different settings (as in lowering the resolution and framerate) to no avail.

Anyway, any help would be appreciated.

 

[Wing rider]

Couple things occur to me.

First, radio signals and that’s what WIFI really is, a very weak radio signal, don’t travel well at all under water. The higher the frequency, the worse they are at it too.

Second, the pond water may be acting like an earth ground thereby grounding out most of your WIFI signal. I guess that may just be a restatement of the first explanation.

I think what you’ll have to do is insulate or waterproof whatever your equipment is using as an antenna. I’ve seen where people use waterproof iPhone cases to do underwater FaceTime because the water never contacts the device.

Hope this helps at least a little.

 

[brokensword]

Thanks for the help. Following the hack, I sealed the stripped inner wire as well as where I stripped it, too. That is, I don't believe the water is getting to the wire at all but will double check and add more glue as necessary. It would explain why I can't get the signal up through the water. I was afraid it was the ipad which wasn't able to receive it fast enough or at all. So to clarify, I have the inner signal wire (still with its inner plastic sheath) bared of the outer casing, cut approximately 3 cm. I sealed the end of the inner wire as well as the seam between outer and inner where I cut. From the hack page, the signal should be picked up by laying the coax on the outer portion of the submersible case, near the wifi button.

I WAS thinking I might drill and seal an inlet to the waterproof case, but was afraid I might really mess with the waterproofing integrity. So, I'll double check and see if I'm leaking the signal to the water as you suggest.

Thanks!

Michael

 

[NSquirrel]

Interesting subject and application.

Just out of interest, does your set up with the cable work out of the water?

 

[brokensword]

Interesting subject and application.

Just out of interest, does your set up with the cable work out of the water?

Yes, no problem so far. Never really used wifi much before (I don't even own a cell phone) so to some degree, am learning as I go. I may have to do some surgery on the waterproof case if I can't get the hack to work. Figure I can always silicone shut the opening if I don't use it, though I'm leery of having a leak during the initial test. I guess I can always drill, mount the coax, seal and send the unit down sans camera for a first test run to see if any leaks develop.

Thanks for the interest.

Michael

 

[NSquirrel]

>> I guess I can always drill, mount the coax, seal and send the unit down sans camera for a first test run to see if any leaks

This may well be the way forward, although I can appreciate your reluctance.

One other thought, probably one you have already tried, is to do a bit more testing on dry land. Perhaps, working at the camera end, move the coax cable around the case (or another piece as you have already glued one in place, and see if there is any change in the iPad display. I would then repeat at the iPad end to look for the most sensitive spots.

 

[brokensword]

>> I guess I can always drill, mount the coax, seal and send the unit down sans camera for a first test run to see if any leaks

This may well be the way forward, although I can appreciate your reluctance.

One other thought, probably one you have already tried, is to do a bit more testing on dry land. Perhaps, working at the camera end, move the coax cable around the case (or another piece as you have already glued one in place, and see if there is any change in the iPad display. I would then repeat at the iPad end to look for the most sensitive spots.

The problem is, on dry land, the signal will still get picked up by the ipad, regardless of if the coax is near or not to the camera case. If I'd gotten any hint of connection while underwater, then I could play around with the sensitive spots. I kept the dry-land-end loose and let it rove all around the ipad, knowing the antenna is bottom right on the ipad. I've only glued the coax where I cut it, etc, not to the case or ipad. I'm using waterproof tape for one and 'loose' for the other.

 

[NSquirrel]

>> The problem is, on dry land, the signal will still get picked up by the ipad,

Good point.

Btw Is the hack source contactable?

 

[brokensword]

>> The problem is, on dry land, the signal will still get picked up by the ipad,

Good point.

Btw Is the hack source contactable?

Yes, and I already asked, though I was thinking it might be the framerate and/or resolution that was the culprit (as in, my settings were higher than his), but he assured me it should work and the parameters did not matter. He tested the unit to 20m, so my simple 5m/15ft version shouldn't be an issue. I can get the camera just below the surface before the signal starts to pixelate and then stop. So, the water is definitely getting in the way (still). I just applied more silicone to the joints and will give it a go again tomorrow after it cures. Beyond that, the drill is going to get involved.

 

[NSquirrel]

‘Just below the surface’ suggests the coax cable is not doing anything at present, or very little. It should improve if you take the whole coax cable through the case. (The tape at present will be acting like the insulator in a capacitor between the water and the wire)

 

[brokensword]

‘Just below the surface’ suggests the coax cable is not doing anything at present, or very little. It should improve if you take the whole coax cable through the case. (The tape at present will be acting like the insulator in a capacitor between the water and the wire)

That's my idea, also. Though the youtube vid says to use waterproof tape to hold the coax to the waterproof housing, I used rubber bands instead as I wasn't sure exactly where I was going to end up putting the wire. From the vid, I can't see the tape or my rubber bands doing anything to help or hurt. I thought I might have to bare the inner coax wire but the youtuber says I need only cut away the outside sheathing, NOT the inner. He even takes some heat and seals the end of this inner wire by pinching it shut. I would imagine I'll bare this wire if I go into the case; might as well make reception as easy as possible, you know?

 

[Thomas1977]

technically ipads are not made to go underwater lol.

 

[J. A.]

technically ipads are not made to go underwater lol.

The camera is under water. The iPad stays on dry land.

 

[brokensword]

technically ipads are not made to go underwater lol.

SMH! You mean I've got it backwards? Well, no wonder it itsn't working...!

Actually, re-siliconed the cut portions and sealed the end of the inner wire, then tried it again using a bucket and voila! I got it to work (about 24" depth). Had to hold the ipad end tightly and at the very left-bottom corner to get the reception to stabilize. Next step will be to try it again in the pond. At least now I have a starting point. And didn't have to do any drilling!

Michael